The rising popularity of tea in France

A quiet revolution is brewing in French cafés as tea, long overshadowed by coffee, surges in popularity, driven by quality, ritual, and a new generation of drinkers.

A quiet revolution is brewing in French cafés as tea, long overshadowed by coffee, surges in popularity, driven by quality, ritual, and a new generation of drinkers. | Contesto: cronaca

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  • The rising popularity of tea in France

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PARIS – In the land of the espresso and the café terrace, a subtle but significant shift is taking place. Tea, once a peripheral beverage in French culture, is experiencing a remarkable surge in popularity, challenging the long-held dominance of coffee and carving out a substantial niche in the nation's drinking habits. This trend is not merely about consumption but reflects a deeper evolution in taste, wellness, and the very rituals of daily life. The narrative of French drinking culture has been written in coffee beans for centuries. The café is an indelible social institution, a place for debate, romance, and solitary contemplation fueled by small, strong cups. Yet, according to industry leaders and market analysts, tea sales have been climbing steadily for over a decade. Specialty tea shops and salons de thé are proliferating in major cities, and traditional cafés are significantly expanding their tea offerings beyond the basic mint or breakfast blend, responding to a growing and more discerning clientele. Erika Le Noan, CEO of the prestigious French tea house Dammann Frères, attributes this rise to a confluence of factors. "The French approach to tea has matured," she explains. "It is no longer seen just as a herbal remedy or a pale imitation of the British afternoon tradition. We are developing our own culture, one that values origin, craftsmanship, and the moment of pause it creates." Le Noan points to a growing interest in the provenance of leaves, the art of blending, and the specific preparation methods that unlock nuanced flavors, mirroring the country's famed expertise in wine and gastronomy. This new appreciation is also driven by a cultural shift towards wellness and mindfulness. The act of preparing and drinking tea offers a deliberate slowdown, a counterpoint to the fast-paced espresso consumed standing at a bar. Furthermore, the vast spectrum of tea—from delicate white and green teas to complex oolongs and robust black blends—caters to a desire for variety and discovery. Younger consumers, in particular, are exploring tea for its diverse taste profiles and lower caffeine options, making it a versatile drink for any time of day. The implications...

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